I hadn't really noticed anything about, or ever even though about, vdroop and the trouble that it is. Since I have a P5B plain board, and not a P5B Deluxe like I had before, I am noticing vdroop BAD since my little OC'd e6320 1.86ghz OC'd to 3.36ghz upgraded to a 105w power hungry Q6600 but with the SLACR G0 stepping, thankfully. This is a 65nm chip, just like the e6320 was, but now it's like having TWO of them.
See, my Asus P5B Deluxe had an 8-pin CPU connector. My P5B plain only has one 4-pin connector... and it's making me VERY ANGRY powering this 105w beast on a 120w 4-pin rail. I need an 8-pin P5B Deluxe so the swap would be a breeze for windows (done it before between many P5B's). Maybe just a p965 chipset would work, but I know for a fact a P5B Deluxe upgrade would give me what I need trouble free.
Now, since I never really new about this stuff before, I don't know what my old e6320 65 watt CPU was causing as far as real voltage produced compared to BIOS setting and vdroop when under load.
I am having to put 1.5v in BIOS, to hold 1.408v-1.442v at idle, and down to an average of 3.23v and even 3.08v and 2.96 volt, which becomes unstable in the 3.4ghz+ range as far as prime 95 is concerned. I know that's a load that won't happen in gaming, but I like being Prime 95 stable.
I can go 3.6ghz @ "1.6v" in BIOS (1.48v or so at idle in reality) and game rock solid all day long. But within 10 seconds or less of Prime95, that massive vdroop I'm about to hit cause I'm going to be pushing easily over 120w.. causes an instant BSOD or plain old lock up.
There's a pencil mod but I'm not going to do it. I need this board to last.
So, FOR NOW, I'm gonna figure out what's stable up to 3.4ghz that I can get to, probably 3.36ghz at a reasonable voltage with temps never getting out of the 40's in games (Zalman 9500 does great on it. I'd be screwed without it, running stock clocks undervolted lol). 3.36ghz is about as high as I can go, PRIME 95 STABLE, at a comfortable voltage (let's not get unreasonable here, higher voltage does help with vdroop, but there is longevity, also... what's the dif between 3.3 and 3.36 ;-)..... a lot to me :-( .
Thread Recap (last 10 posts from newest to oldest)
Jun 14, 13 at 1:58pm
I understand. Well, now I have an HD7850 vs my old HD4870. Twice the less power. Only one 6 pin PCI-e connector to it, whereas the HD4870 took two. It's "helping" stability on my Vdroop where I have a single 12v rail. So, this 4x more powerful in games, yet half the power use card, will also help my overclocking. Just waiting on my DDR2 1066 G.Skill sticks to come in to make my overclocking effortless and get the MOST performance out of my current parts for the cheapest prices.
Otherwise, I'd have an i5 rig, but that'd be new motherboard, installation of Windows for chipsets, etc. etc. etc. That's gonna be a WHOLE new rig while I keep this one this way, + the extra RAM I'm gonna run. It is 2x2GB 5-5-5-15 DDR2 1066mhz @ 2.0-2.1v RAM by G.Skill.
Well... here they are. Gonna really make my particular overclocking case easier instead of going with a new motherboard that's s775 and has all my needs. I miss my 2 p5b plus's. I have em beside me, fried their BIOS overclocking too high on C2D's with 6 or 7x multi's haha. Talk about HIIGHHHH bus speeds.... I personally believe I corrupted my BIOS data. Could have em repaired, I'm sure, but it'd be a lot of soldering.
LATE EDIT: Never stick 1066mhz RAM sticks in your P5B. It won't work. It won't even revert them to 800mhz to give you the headroom of 1066mhz.
Jun 10, 13 at 2:11pm
So, in the BIOS it shows the exact amount you have it set to?
no, the BIOS sensors show lower than what the BIOS settings are.
Do you have an 8-pin CPU plug or what motherboard/CPU combo are you running?
yes msi p67a-gd55 i5 2500k @ 4.7 Ghz
Then... when you go into windows, will your CPU-z show the same thing as it does in the BIOS at idle without speedstep on?
i cant tell you that, without turning off all my programs. F@H can be stopped in a few seconds, but i also have a virtual machine with uses a good deal of CPU power as well, and suspending it is a major pain.
Jun 10, 13 at 1:16pm
Oh, ok. So, in the BIOS it shows the exact amount you have it set to? Do you have an 8-pin CPU plug or what motherboard/CPU combo are you running? In my BIOS, I'm running about .1v lower than I have it set to. Depends how high. Can be .05 lower if I have a lower voltage set. I only have a 4-pin CPU plug on my board, whereas I now have a 105w Q6600 in place of my 65w e6320. Not to mention, a 4-pin plug can only handle around 120w. So, when I overclock, I just can't get the juice through to the CPU.
Then... when you go into windows, will your CPU-z show the same thing as it does in the BIOS at idle without speedstep on? So it's at the same GHZ? That's a nice motherboard if you are pushing the same, if not a tad more, voltage under 100% load. VERY stable. Would you mind to let me know those things?
Jun 10, 13 at 7:39am
at idle, it shows lower than the set amount in the bios.
mind you, once windows loads, my computer is on a permanent 100% load on both the CPU and the GPU, since i run folding@home
Jun 10, 13 at 7:22am
When you check your hardware monitor in the BIOS, does it show the same thing? At an idle? My idle voltage matches up with the monitor in my BIOS just like it does with HWMonitor and CPU-z. Because, that's quite odd. You have the complete opposite of VDroop going on, lol.
Jun 09, 13 at 10:43pm
cpu-z and speedfan show about the same readings.
Jun 09, 13 at 2:41pm
Hard to say what's up. Not the right software? Gotta find the right software for the right board, or you'll get some crazy readings. CPU-z usually shows correct CPU voltage, and CPUID Hardware Monitor, made by CPUID like CPU-z), is one of my favorites to monitor my system. It doesn't monitor my 12v right... unless my single 12v rail @ 56a Corsair 650w TX really is pushing 14.163v right now haha. Let's hope not.
Jun 09, 13 at 12:43pm
ive had that myself, though i get higher voltages reported than what i set in my BIOS when i start putting my processor under load.
Jun 09, 13 at 12:30pm
Oh, ok, thanks for the explanation. I'm off to disable. I only have a cell phone laying near my computer, nothing else radio-like.
I don't have a Vdroop setting, I'm talking about actual Vdroop. When you set your VCore to 1.4v in BIOS, come out and you are pushing 1.32xv in BIOS hardware monitor, CPU-Z, or any valid hard ware monitor for Windows, you actually push less than what you pick in the BIOS.
THEN... you put a load on it and bam, that 1.4v, that's really 1.32xv, goes down to 1.23v, causing instabilities. This depends on CPU, PSU, MOBO (4-pin vs 8-pin CPU plug), etc, but I don't like it :-P.
I have to run SUPER high voltages to hold 3.6+ghz steady (1.6+v) because of Vdroop. I drop too low during Prime95.
It's hard getting high clocks Prime 95 stable on a 4-pin CPU motherboard meant for 65w dual cores that now has a 105w (stock) quad core in it. I should have gotten a newer Q8xxx or something quad for less power consumption. Because I won't find a good P5B Deluxe (8-ping CPU) out there, that's for sure.
Jun 09, 13 at 2:18am
i disable spread spectrum. having it on any enabled setting reduces stability. people enable it because if disabled, it can cause electromagnetic interference that affects sensitive radio devices. but im talking about really sensitive devices. actual radios are fine. most people should have it disabled.
and i was talking about vdroop.
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